To be Sulfate-Free or not to be, that is the Question!

Woman in Bathtub with towel wrapped on head
Choosing between a sulfate-based and sulfate-free shampoo is not an easy decision for most of us.

A Table Listing Sulfates Commonly Used in Shampoos

The Pro’s and Con’s of Sulfate-free Shampoo
For the past two decades a lot of scientific work has gone into identifying sulfate-free surfactants that can deliver the suds. Those efforts have paid dividends as there are a number of mild sulfate-free options that can produce a lather. However, even with as much improvement as there’s been, there’s still no question that lather-for-lather sulfate-based shampoos win the foaming contest hands down. Having said that, when applied properly, today’s better sulfate-free shampoos can actually clean just as well as sulfate-free shampoos. In fact consumers need to be careful, some “sulfate-free” shampoos use an ingredient called olefin sulfonate which cleans well but is just as harsh as sulfates on hair.[xi] Additionally, some sulfate-free products contain sodium chloride which is considered by some to be a “keratin-killer” if used in excess.[xii] Nevertheless, just as sulfate-based shampoos win the foam contest, sulfate-free shampoos win the battle for mildness and gentler impact on hair.  This means that if you have chemically treated, dry or frizz-prone hair, sulfate-free shampoo is the recommended path for you.  

A table listing Sulfate-free ingredients to watch out for

Conclusion
There are strong arguments to be made for both sulfate-based and sulfate-free shampoos. Unless you have eczema or an allergy to sulfates, you can use either shampoo type. In addition, the quality of the ingredients and formulation play a very important role in overall shampoo performance. Desert Botanicals is developing top performing paraben-free and cruelty-free sulfate-free and sulfate-based shampoos so consumers have a choice on which they use. In sum, if you prefer a rich lather that facilitates an easier clean a sulfate-based shampoo is the way to go, while if you have color-treated or naturally frizz prone hair a sulfate-free shampoos is a better option.

References:
[i] American Salon “WHAT’S IN YOUR BOTTLE? A look at some of the newest ingredients turning up in haircare products today” by American Salon Staff (January 1, 2008) https://www.americansalon.com/news/workshop-7
[ii] “Essentials of Hair Care often Neglected: Hair Cleansing” by Dr. Zoe Draelos, International Journal of Trichology January-June 2010 2(1)
[iii]“With shampoo sales peaking and clean hair all over the runways, lathering up is suddenly on trend” by Karl Molvar, Fashion (Canada), October 1, 2017
[iv] “A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments” by P.A. Cornwell, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018, 40, pp. 16-30
[v] “Are Sulfates in Shampoo Dangerous?” by Jon Johnson, Medical News Today, November 15, 2019.
[vi] P.A. Cornwell
[vii] “What is Sulfate-free Shampoo: Myth or Must?” by The Hairstory Team, Hairstory.com, December 3, 2018
[viii] “Sulfates in Shampoo” by Ada McVean, McGill University Office for Science and Society, June 27, 2017
[ix] “What is Sulfate-free Shampoo”, by the Hairstory Team.
[x] “Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Why You Need To Check Your Shampoo Label, Now” by Sarah Leon May 25, 2012 Huffington Post (Style and Beauty). https://www.huffingtonpost.com.au/entry/sulfate-free-shampoo_n_1534277
[xi] BLOG: DHA’s DIY “What are the problems with sulfate-free shampoo?” (July 7, 2018) https://www.dominicanhairalliance.com/hair-blog/what-are-the-problems-with-sulfate-free-shampoo
[xii] “A Lather Over Sulfates: Popular Sulfate-Free Shampoos are Great for Keeping in Keratin and Color – and not so Great for Sudsing and Cleaning” by Ashley Primis, The Philadelphia Inquirer, July 13, 2011.